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Created with Eselt - Responsive Designs for Sellers Created with Eselt - Responsive Designs for Sellers Created with Eselt - Responsive Designs for Sellers Harley Davidson Panhead/Knucklehead/Shovelhead Electronic IgnitionPoints Replacement
BRINGS YOUR ANTIQUE HARLEY BACK TO LIFE
WORKS ON SIX & TWELVE VOLT SYSTEMS
WORKS WITH YOUR STOCK COILS
EASY TWO WIRE HOOK UP
FITS YOUR ORIGINAL STOCK DISTRIBUTOR
QuickStart is dependable! This unit is very easy to install and can be used with your original stock distributor with no extra boxes needed. Nobody knows what you have when the dust cover is on. Once the points are removed, the QuickStart unit can be screwed into the same holes. At any time, the unit may be removed and the original points re-installed, so nothing destroys your original components.
Systems QuickStart 2000 Works With
QuickStart is available for point systems only, for Harley Havidson models, JDs 1914 and up, VLs 1930 and up , 1936 to 69 V-Twins, 1970 and up Big V Twins and Sporsters, and NOW the Harley Sprints!
Quality Assurance
Ed\'s QuickStart ignitions have been in use for more than Twenty years. The QuickStart 2000 is long lasting, shock and heat resistant and waterproof.
Performance
QuickStart ignitions fire every time at the proper time, resulting in quick starts and more power, better fuel economy and precision response performance from your engine. There is less carbon buildup, so plugs don\'t foul out like they do with points systems.
This is the ONE AND ONLY QuickStart 2000 Electronic Ignition for antique Harley Davidson motorcycles, don\'t be fooled by imitations or others selling similar 2000 - Performance & These units are designed to fit properly. If the rotor does not fit properly DO NOT FORCE IT ON as you may have ordered the wrong unit! Do not modify the plate, if the plate gets hot it will destroy parts in the module and void the warranty.If your distributer has a bolt or a \"C\" clip holding down the points cam it is an after-market distributor not made by Harley Davidson. If you have ordered the wrong unit it can be returned and exchanged as long as it has not been modified or damaged in any way. Call Ed for further instructions on exchanges and returns: [phone removed by ]. Voltage
This unit is designed to work on 6 or 12 volts, but will work on as low as 5.2 volts.Coils for Best Performance
Suppression coil wires work best
6 volts: 1.2 to 3 ohm coils (point coils will work) A 1.5 ohm coil works best.
12 volts: 2.7 to 4.7ohm coils (point coils will work) A 3 ohm coil works best. Coils over 4.7 will cause a high speed miss.
Testing ohm\'s on the Coil
If the bike cuts out at high rpm\'s, the coil is usually the problem. To test the ohms on the coil, take off the wires on both small posts, test with an ohm meter from post to post. If the bike runs on one cylinder or has a high speed miss the gap between the rotor and module may be too wide. The gap cannot be over .040 and should be about the thickness of a business card. If the gap is too wide it is okay to elongate the screw holes in order to reposition the plate closer to the rotor. This is done by hand using a small chain saw file so the plate does not get hot. Any questions call Ed: [phone removed by ].
Grounding and Voltage
This unit needs a good ground, and as MUCH VOLTAGE AS POSSIBLE. The module plate needs a good contact. A thin layer of grease is recommended to stop corrosion. The module plate gets its ground through the points base and the engine.
SmallerPoint Cams
Harley Davidson made the distributor (breaker) shaft smaller on some distributors. Thebest way to make the rotor fit tighteris to use scotch tape up one side, over the top and down the other side of the shaft, then press on the rotor.
Proper Fitting for the Module Plate
On the 1965 Harley Davidson, the module plate needs to be modified for proper fit. Ed has done the proper modifications on the 1965 units.Plugs and Wires
The best setting for plug gap is .028. Solid core wires do work with the units although suppression coil wires deliver a hotter spark and perform better.
Problems Starting the Bike
You still need to retard the distributor. Try starting the bike like you normally do, kicking the engine over twice, with the choke on and key off, then with the choke almost off and key on, retard about 1/2 way back. It shouldl start with the next kick. With the engine warmed up, it starts with the first kick without 2000 Electronic Ignitions - Brings your antique Harley back to life, works on six & twelve volt systems, works with your stock coils, easy two wire hook up and fits your original stock American Iron Magazine, August 2006
Hidden & Helpful - QuickStart 2000 Electronic Ignition
Tech by Buzz Kanter
Over the years, an awful lot of terrible products that were supposed to make bikes run better, smoother, or longer have ended up in the junk pile with all the other snake oils and gimmicks. This ignition, as simple as it sounds, is not one of those items. It does what it is supposed to do, and just about anyone can install it with a few basic hand tools.
Never heard of the QuickStart 2000 or EBeyond 2000? If you ride an older 6- or 12-volt Harley (running a points system in a distributor), then you\'ll want to. The creator of the ignition, Ed Fralick, an artist and old-fashioned mechanical tinkerer, makes some heady claims in his brochure: \"Bring Your Antique Harley Back to Life:... Works on 6- and 12-volt systems... Easy two-wire hook up... Starts every time and fires every time... Fits your original stock distributor!\" And he\'s right.
My friend (and mechanic) Pete Orlando, who knows more about older Harleys than almost anyone I know, is very skeptical whenever I mention new technology for old Harleys. He\'s tried almost everything over the years, usually because customers insist on it. And, in most cases, they eventually go back to stock. So, when I first mentioned this ignition, Pete told me to forget it. But a few months ago, I got him to try one, and he was impressed- so impressed that when I mentioned the possibility of installing one on my 1965 Panhead (our most recent rustoration project bike), he agreed it would be a worthwhile improvement.
The QuickStart 2000 is simple. It drops into the stock location using stock hardware with only two wires, one to the stock coil and one to the battery with no modifications at all. The QuickStart\'s inexpensive ($145 for the application, and others for Harleys from 1930 and later), and invisible (it\'s all hidden under the stock distributor cap).
After the install, which took less than an hour, the bike started easier and seem to run a bit stronger on my 60-mile first outing. I look forward to a long-term review of this ignition. Details to follow in a few months.
Simple, Smart & Invisible Upgrades
My goal was to keep this bike looking as stock as possible, but, because this is a rider, I am always looking for reliable ways for my \'65 Pan to run stronger and longer. The three areas I have found that do work (and that aren\'t obvious) are installing the ignition, as we just detailed on these pages, replacing the stock mesh air filter with a more efficient K&N unit, and replacing the old float with a modern brass one. The K&N filter will probably outlast the bike and do a great job keeping out all the micro particles that, if allowed into the carb, will damage the engine. It\'s a snap to install and can easily be cleaned and reinstalled in minutes. The brass float is necessary because more additives are showing up at the gas pump. Many of these additives will eat into or swell the stock floats, causing them to stick or jam in the float bowls. This will result in either a lack of fuel or overflow, depending upon where the additives strike. You can replace the stock float with a brass one, as outlined in the factory manual, but be aware that the brass model has a different weight than the stock one, so it needs to be set at 5/16\" measured from the edge of the float bowl (a stock float is set at 1/4\"). class=\"main\">
The Horse Magazine, August 2003
Quickstart 2000 - Dump the Points for an Electronic Ignition
Product Review, by Stevenson\'s Cycle
It was a typically cold, freezing, morning in Michigan. Steve asked Mike, one of his employees, to bring his Sportster in to be used as a test bed for a new product. Mike\'s 1969 Sportster was the perfect guinea pig for the QuickStart 2000 electronic ignition, which replaces the single contact point system. Why was it perfect? Because it was Mike\'s, and if something went terribly wrong, then who\'d care?
Steve picked this unit up in Cincinnati and thought it would make an interesting tech article. The electronic unit fits right in where the points go, with no additional boxes or hardware. You retain the distributor and when it\'s installed, you can\'t tell that you\'ve installed an electronic ignition. So, Steve thought it was worth checking out...(*One thing I\'d like to add: When we do a test, there are no preconceived notions or deals made with the manufacturer. The product is tested and the results presented to you the way they turned out-good or bad.)
Basic Installation
First, As always, disconnect the battery. Then remove the air cleaner so you can get to the distributor. Remove the dust cover and remove the old points and condenser, then remove the timer coil wire from both the distributor and coil.
Feed the new wires through the same hole that the old system used. Mount the new unit, using the existing mounting holes; a very quick and simple swap out. When you place the rotor back on, us a drop of silicone to ensure it\'s secure.
Connect the red wire to the same side of the coil that the power switch is on (the positive side). Do not yet connect the black wire yet.
Timing is Everything
Remove the spark plugs and the timing hole plug on the crankcase. As you bump the engine to get it to top dead center, be careful. If you intend on getting a picture of the timing mark on the fly wheel, make sure you inform the engine-kicker-over guy on the other side when you\'re aiming your camera at the hole, or you may end up with oil all over your camera.
Make sure that you\'re on the compression stroke on the front cylinder and line the timing mark up through the inspection hole. (Check out the \"Pushrod Adjustment\" feature in this issue if you need to know how to do that.)
Now you\'re ready to adjust the distributor. You can use a test light to perform a static test, but we found that it worked just as well to hold the mechanical advance weights open and line up the white marks by eye. Once you have everything lined up, tighten everything down, secure the black wire to the coil and reinstall the dust cover and air cleaner. Don\'t forget the plugs and timing plug hole. Oh, and don\'t forget to reconnect the battery.
Total time: About 50 minutes elapsed time but included in that time was a quick oil change for another customer and some counter work, so the actual time, performed in a shop, is much less.
The Results
Just prior to the installation, Mike had a hard time starting the bike. Even with new points and everything adjusted correctly, starting was a bitch. The first crank with the new electronic ignition and it fired it right up. Mike said it has never started as effortlessly as it does now, and the performance is unbelievable.
Created with Eselt - Responsive Designs for Sellers Created with Eselt - Responsive Designs for Sellers
