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1983/1984 MX III frame. How did we determine a year of production with little to no information available on these early bikes. Fortunately, there’s a lot of experts out there and Redline enthusiasts like myself that have pieces to the puzzle. The next step is to get these guys together that have the pieces and let them just start putting the puzzle together The serial number runs in sequence(see below) So you take the serial number and you look how the frame was constructed and that got us a year make and model.
The below information is not mine. I’m the enthusiast, not the expert. Definitely answers a lot of questions that I had though.
499612 Unknown Year, Redline MX-III frame
502365 1984 Redline MX-III frame (has gusset behind seat, CS bridge, Redline Oval stamp)
502867 Unknown Year, Redline Proline (CS bridge)
505092 Unknown Year, Redline MX-III frame (has gusset behind seat, No CS bridge, Redline Oval stamp)
507159 Unknown Year, Redline MX-III frame (has gusset behind seat, No CS bridge, Redline Oval stamp)
US MADE REDLINE SERIAL NUMBERS
Okay, it’s time I published this. I’ve spent the last 9 years compiling US made Redline serial numbers. This is by no means an absolute declaration that this is what they are. From 1974-1979, the numbers were pulled from Linn’s journals also published on this page. After that it’s pretty much observational logic based on changes made to construction techniques and/or finishes. This applies to 70s and 80s frames when Linn owned the company. I have done exactly ZERO research on the 90s Control Tech US made frames.
1974: 100 - 207
1975: 208 - 1218
1976: 1219 - 4071
1977: 4072 - 7727
1978: 7728 - 10606
1979: 10607 - 26965
1980: 33068 -349303
1981: 350145 - 354090
1982: 354325 - 375889
1983: 377236 - 507084
1984: 507690 - 510524
1986: 512119 - 514988
MXIII
This Redline was a hot mess when I Got her. I didn’t know it was gonna look this good when I got done, I was considering the trash, but with some TLC and elbow grease shes ready to ride again. The chrome appears to be original and looks great all things considered however, (see pictures) it’s not perfect. it polishes up well but there’s oxidation and imperfections as well as some peppering that is starting to show up. No cracks re-welds or damage. The cups on the head tube are threadless fork conversion and the bottom bracket cups are sealed bearing conversion, so the way the frame sits you can mount 1 1/8 threadless forks. if you don’t want the HT or BB cups, I will take them out before packaging to ship if you have any questions or need additional pictures HMU John