1867 INDIAN WARS MASSACRES CIVIL WAR OLD WEST PIONEERS RAILROAD GOLD RUSH MORMON For Sale

1867 INDIAN WARS MASSACRES CIVIL WAR OLD WEST PIONEERS RAILROAD GOLD RUSH MORMON 1867 INDIAN WARS MASSACRES CIVIL WAR OLD WEST PIONEERS RAILROAD GOLD RUSH MORMON

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Description BEYOND THE MISSISSIPPI:
FROM THE GREAT RIVER TO THE GREAT OCEAN.

LIFE AND ADVENTURE

OF THE

PRAIRIES, MOUNTAINS, AND PACIFIC COAST.

WITH MORE THAN TWO HUNDRED ILLLUSTRION\'S, FROM PHOTOGRAPHS AND ORIGINAL

SKETCHES, OF THE PRAIRIES, DESERTS, MOUNTAINS, RIVERS, MINES,

CITIES. INDIANS, TRAPPERS, PIONEERS, AND GREAT NATURAL

CURIOSITIES OF THE NEW STATES AND TERRITORIES.

1857 — 1867

BY

ALBERT J. RICHARDSON,

AUTHOR OF \' FIELD, DUNGEON AND ESCAPE.\'

( Issued by subscription only, and not for sale in the bookstores. Residents of any State in the Union desiring 
copies should address the Publishers, and an agent will call upon them.)



HARTFORD, CONN. 
AMERICAN PUBLISHING COMPANY.

NATIONAL PUBLISHING COMPANY,

PHILADELPHIA, PA., CINCINNATI, O., CHICAGO, ILL., ST. LOUIS, MO., NEW ORLEANS, LA., ATLANTA, GA., RICHMOND, VA.

BLISS & COMPANY, NEW YORK

1867 FIRST EDITION

572 PAGES, WITH MAP, DECORATIVE HARDCOVER BINDING

 WITH MORE THAN 200 BEAUTIFUL ILLUSTRATIONS AND MAPS.....

THIS BOOK IS COMPLETE, CLEAN AND IN GOOD TO VERY GOOD CONDITION... PLEASE SEE PICTURES


Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1867,

By Albert D. RICHARDSON,

In the Clerk\'s Office of the District Court of the Southern District of New York.

PLEASE SCROLL ALL OF THE WAY DOWN TO SEE MORE PICTURES...




PREFATORY.

Twenty years ago, half our continent was an unknown land, and the
Rocky Mountains were our Pillars of Hercules. Five years hence, the
Orient will be our next-door neighbor. We shall hold the world\'s granary,
the world\'s treasury, the world\'s highway. But we shall have no Far
West, no border, no Civilization, in line of battle, pressing back hostile
savages, and conquering hostile Nature.

I have sought to picture a fleeting phase of our national life ; not
omitting its grotesque, lawless features ; not concealing my admiration for
the adventurous pioneers who have founded great States from the Missis-
sippi to the Pacific, and made a new geography for the American Union.

It is discreditable to Americans — peculiarly so to those with means and
leisure for traveling abroad — that they know little of this geography ;
little of the greatness, richness and beauty of our national inheritance.

In exhaustlessness and variety of resources, no other country on the
globe equals ours beyond the Mississippi. In grand natural curiosities
and wonders, all other countries combined fall far below it.


Its mines, forests and prairies await the capitalist. Its dusky races,
earth-monuments and ancient cities importune tne antiquarian. Its
cataracts, canyons and crests woo the painter. Its mountains, minerals
ind stupendous vegetable productions challenge the naturalist. Its air

invites the invalid, healing the system -wounded by ruder climates. Its
society welcomes the immigrant, offering high interest upon his invest-
ment of money, brains or skill ; and if need be, generous obliviousness of
errors past — a clean page to begin anew the record of his life.

The themes are fruitful. The Pacific Railroad hastens toward comple-
tion. We seem on the threshold of a destiny higher and better than any
nation has yet fulfilled. And the great West is to rule us.

The field is very large. In crossing it here and there, I have only lin-
gered at some noteworthy points. Future writers will study and depict
it, State by State, more minutely and more worthily.

New York, May, 1867.



ILLUSTRATIONS,



ARTISTS\' NAMES IN SMALL CAPITALS ; ENGRAVERS\' IN ITALICS......

1. Map of the region between the Mississippi and the Pacific. (Two pages.)

Drawn on wood by Tudor Horton ; engraved by Fay & Cox

2. Illuminated Title page. Thomas Nast. J. P. Davis & Speer

3. The Gray Goose Quill. A. C. Warren. Fay & Cox ..... 17

4. A Snagged Steamer. A. R. Waud. Davis & Speer. ..... 21



5. The Grade in Kansas City. A. R. Waud. Davis & Speer ..... 26

6. Lawrence Kansas, in 1857. Thomas Hogan. Davis & Speer ..... 35

7. Waukarusa. George G. White. Davis & Speer ..... 37

8. Mud Fort. Hogan. Davis & Speer ..... 38


9. Capture of Colonel Titus. White. N Orr & Company ..... 40

10. Portrait of James H. Lane. W. Waud. Davis & Speer ..... 45

11. A Prohibitory Law. White. Orr ..... 52

12. City of New Babylon on Paper. Warren. Davis & Speer ..... 59


13. City of New Babylon in Fact. White. Davis & Speer ..... 60

14. Moving Accident by Flood and Field. Hogan. Davis & Speer ..... 62

15. \'You can\'t hang me but once.\' White. Orr ..... 69

16. Law and Order Men. Benjamin Day. Danis & Speer ..... 72

17. Indians Traveling. J. C. Beard. J. H. Richardson ..... 74



18. Family Encampment. J. C. Beard. Orr ..... 78

19. Governor Robinson\'s Trial for Treason. H. L. Stephens. Richardson ..... 83

20. A Fire in the Rear. Stephens. Davis & Speer ..... 85

21. A Comfortable Slumber. Day. Davis & Speer ..... 90


22. A Night in the Cabin of Four Miles. (Full page.) Nast. Davis &

Speer. Face page ..... 91

23. Indian Mode of Burial. Granville Perkins. Davis & Speer ..... 97

24. Voting in Kickapoo. Frank Beard. Davis & Speer ..... 101

25. \' A Scene Like This.\' Sol. Etynge, Jr. Davis & Speer ..... 107


26. Old Kaintuck. Stephens. Davis & Speer ..... 110

27. \' About Full Here!\' F. Beard. Davis & Speer ..... 112

28. Navigation of the Kansas River. John R. Chapin. Orr ..... 115

29. The Marais des Cygnes Massacre. (Full page.) Chapin. Richardson.

Face page ..... 117


30. The Executive Supporting the Judiciary. Chapin. Orr ..... 122

31. Portrait of James Montgomery\'. W Waud. Davis ifc Speer ..... 125

32. A Peace Convention at Fort Scott, Kansas. (Full page.) F. Beard. Davis &

Speer. Face page ..... 128


33. Returned Pike\'s-Peakers. F. Beard. Orr ..... 137

34. A Morning Caller. F. Beard. Davis & Speer ..... 138

35. A Habitable Dwelling. Miss Emma De Ryke. Orr. ..... 138

36. A House Twelve by Fourteen. Miss M. H. Vanderveer. Fay & Cox ..... 140


37. A Bona fide Residence. Miss Lizzie B. Humphrey. Orr ..... 141

38. End of the Bogus Laws. Miss M. Jarvis. Fay & Cox ..... 149

39. What\'s in a name ? A. R. Waud. Davis & Speer ..... 156

40. An Abolition Emissary. (Full page.) William J. Hennessy. Davis &

Speer. Face page ..... 154


41. The Dead Brother. J. C. Beard. Davis & Speer ..... 158

42. \' Grocery.\' A. R. Waud. Davis & Speer ..... 162

43. Horace Greeley\'s Manuscript. . Davis & Speer .....164

44. \' Busted, By Thunder \' J. C. Beard. Orr ..... 166

45. Narrow escape from the Buffaloes. (Full page.) J. C. Beard. Richardson.

Face page ...... 168


46. Portrait of Horace Greeley. W. Waud. Davis & Speer ..... 170

47. A Change of Base. Warren. Davis & Speer ..... 174

48. Republican River. Perkins. Davis & Speer. ..... 176

49. Climbing into the Mountains. White. Orr ..... 180

50. Gregory Gold Diggings in Colorado, May, 1859. (Full page.) White. Orr ..... 181

51. Misplaced Confidence. Edwin Forbes. Davis & Speer ..... 184

52. Seven Views in Denver Colorado, 1859. (Full page.) Warren. Fay & Cox.

Face page ..... 186

53. A Visit from Little Raven. A. R. Waud. Davis & Speer .....191

54. Burned to Death. H. Fenn. Davis & Speer ..... 196

55. Flapjacks. Warren. Fay & Cox ...... 200

56. Going into the Mines. Stephens. Richardson ..... 202

57. Coming Out. Stephens. Richardson ..... 203

58. Missouri Iron Miners at Work. Chapin. Richardson ..... 205

59. Missouri Lead Miners above Ground. Thwaits. Davis & Speer ..... 211

60. Down tlio Shaft. F. A. Chapman. Davis & Speer ..... 212

61. Lead Miners under Ground. Chapman. James L. Langridge ..... 213

62. The Church-going Bell. Stephens. Richardson .....216

63. Governor Walker\'s Residence, Indian Territory. William Waud. Davis &

Speer. Face page ..... 219

64. A Counter-irritant. W. FiSK. Fay & Cox ..... 220

65. A Charmed Line. F. Beard. Davis & Speer ..... 223

66. A Mexican Cart. Miss Humphrey. Davis & Speer ..... 227

67 Comanche Greeting. F. E. Mullen. Davis & Speer ..... 229

68. A Morning Amusement. Forbes. Fay & Cox ..... 231

69. The Mirage. Fenx. Davis & Speer ..... 233

70. Indians Surprised and Defeated in Limpia Canyon. (Full page.) Warren.

Langridge ..... 234

71. The Spanish Bayonet. A. R. Waud. Davvi & Speer . ..... 236

72. Street Scenes in El Paso, old Mexico. W. Waud. Davis & Speer ..... 240

73. A Mexican Fandango. Hogan. Davis & Speer ..... 242


74. \' Journey of the Dead Man.\' Thwaits. Davis & Speer ..... 246

75. A Mexican Grist-Mill. Miss Jarvis. Davis & Speer ...... 247

76. A Mexican Farm-house. Miss De Ryke. Fay & Cox. ..... 250

77. Gambling in Santa Fe. F. Beard. Davis & Speer ..... 252

78. Portrait of Kit Carson. W. \"Waud. Davis & Speer ..... 257

79. Mexican Carriages. Chapin. Richardson .....260

80. Hitching a Donkey. White. Orr ..... 261

81. Penitentes lashing themselves. Mullen. Davis & Speer ..... 264

82. The Taos Pueblo. Fenx. Davis & Spetr ..... 266

83. My Rueful Mexican Host. White. Orr ..... 273

84. First view of Colorado City\'. White. Orr ..... 276

85. The Fontaine Qui Bouille. G. W. Crane. Orr ..... 277

86. The Author arrives in Denver. A. R. Waud. Davis & Speer ..... 279

87. John Brown. (Brady, Plhotographer.) A. R. Waud. Davis & Speer ..... 283

88. A letter from Jolin Brown. Davis & Speer ..... 285

89. \' Do they Miss Me at Home ?\' J. C. Beard. Richardson ..... 288

90. An Armed Neutrality. A. R. Waud. G. II. Hayes ..... 291

91 \' Our House \' in Denver. A. R. Waud. Davis & Speer ..... 295

92. Waiting for Letters. F. Beard. Davis & Speer ..... 298

93. Indian Village in Denver, in 1860. White. Orr ..... 300

94. A Rocky Mountain Scene. From a Painting by Albert Bierstadt. (Full page.)

Dixon. John Karst. Face page ..... 302

95. A Voluntary Retraction. A. R. Waud. Davis & Speer ..... 306

96. The Arastra. J. C. Beard. Richardson ..... 307

97. Pike\'s Peak, from Forty Miles Northeast. Perkins. Davis & Speer ... 310

98. Scene in the Monument Region. White. Orr. ..... 311

99. Gateway to Garden of the Gods. Miss Humphrey. Davis & Speer ....312 

100. Climbing Pike\'s Peak. R. M. Shurtleff. Davis & Speer ..... 314

101. Under the Shelving Rock. White. Orr ..... 317

102. On the Summit. White. Orr ..... 321

103. \' Lincoln is Elected !\' J. C. Beard. Richardson ..... 325

104. Light Artillery. Hogan. Davis & Speer ..... 328

105. A Picture of Whoa ! Forbes. Davis & Speer. ..... 329

106. Denver Architecture in 1867. W. Waud. Fay & Cox ..... 334

107. An Honest Miner. Hogan. Davis & Speer ..... 336

108. Indian Attack at North Platte Crossing. White. Orr ..... 339

109. An Outside Passenger. F. H. Schell. Fay & Cox ..... 341

110. Snow-balling in June. J. Becker. Fay & Cox ..... 344

111. Emigration Canyon. (S. W. Y. Schimonsky, U. P.R.R.) Hogan. Davis & Speer. .. 345

112. Great Salt Lake City, Utah, 1867. (Full page.) (Schimonsky.) Chapin.

Richardson ..... 347

113. Brigham Preaching to his Congregation. White. Orr .... 343

114. Portrait of Brigham Young.   W. Waud. Davis & Speer ..... 352

115. Lion House and Bee-Hive House. E. Bonwell Davis & Speer .... 354

116. \'Why, I am your Wife !\' Miss Mary A. Hallock, Davis & Speer .... 357

117. The Great Salt Lake. (Schimonsky, ) Schell, Davis & Speer .... 360

118. An Early Mormon Coin. Davis & Speer  ..... 364

119. Egan Canyon and first Quartz Mill. (Sclimonsky) \"White. 0rr. 368

120. Virginia Nevada, and Mount Davidson. Boxwell. Davis & Speer. ...... 372

121. The Crashed Timbers. Day. Davis & Speer ..... 375

122. On the Ladder. A. R. \"Waud. Davis & Speer ,. ..... 377

123. Portrait of Louis McLane. A. R. Waud. Davis & Speer ..... 381

124. Montgomery Street, San Francisco, July 4, 1865. Schell. Davis & Spear. ... 383

125. Down the Sierra Nevadas by Stage-coach, in 1865. (Full page.) \"Warren.

Langridge ..... 384

126. A Group of Celestials. W. Waud. Davis & Speer ..... 385

127. Hydraulic Mining. Schelu Davis & Speer ..... 391

128. Mount Shasta. (Painted by F. A. Butman.) Fenn. Davis & Speer ..... 395

129. Portland, Oregon, July 4, 1865. Boxwell. Davis & Speer ..... 400

130. Sheridan\'s first Battle Ground, Columbia River. Perkins. Langridge ..... 402

131. A Midnight Reception to Speaker Colfax. A. R. Waud. Davis & Speer. . ... 404

132. Portrait of Albert Bierstadt. A. R. Waud. Davis & Speer ..... 410

133. Mount Rainier from Puget Sound. (Butman.) Warrex. Orr ..... 413

134. \' Lightning,\' an Indian Belle. A. R. AVaud. Langridge ..... 417

135. Government Street, Victoria Vancouver Island. W. Waud. Davis & Speer.... 419

136. Going into Yosemite Valley. A. R. Waud. Davis & Speer 421

137. Diagram of Yosemite Valley. Hussey. Davis & Speer ..... 423

138. El Capitan. (Watkins, Photographer, San Francisco.) Perkins. Langridge. ..... 424

139. Yosemite Fall— liighest in the World. (Watkins.) Warren. Orr ..... 425

140. Vernal Fall and Round Rainbow. (Watkins.) Fenn. Langridge ..... 428

141. Bed and Board. Day. Davis & Speer , . ...... 431

142. Riding through a Tree-Trunk. Hogan. Fay & Cox . ..... 432

143. The Grizzly Giant — 34 feet in diameter. Fenn. Davis & Speer ..... 434

144. Invitation to Chinese Dinner. Davis & Speer ..... 436

145. Chinese Dinner in San Francisco. A. R. Waud. Fay & Cox ..... 438

146. Schuyler Colfax. (Wm Shew, Photog., S. F.) A. R. Waud. Davis & Speer. ..... 44l

147. Portrait of Governor Bross. W. Waud. Davis & Speer ..... 443

148. Portrait of Samuel Bowles. W. Waud. Davis & Speer ..... 444

149. \'You Get!\' A. R. Waud. Davis & Speer ..... 445

150. \' You Bet !\' A. R. Waud. Davis & Speer. ..... 446

151. San Francisco from the Bay in 1847. \' Annals of San Francisco.\' ... 448

152. San Francisco in 1849. \'Annals of San Francisco.\' ..... 450

153. Interior of Mission Church. \' Annals of San Francisco.\' ..... 452

154. California Fruits and Vegetables. (Full page.) (Photographed by Bradley

& Rulofson, San Francisco.) Hogan. Davis & Speer. Face page ..... 453

155. California Cactus. Miss De Ryke. Fay & Cox ..... 456

156. An Early California Coin. HORTOX. Fay & Cox ..... 458

157. Portrait of Leland Stanford. A. R. Waud. Davis & Speer ..... 462

158. Chinamen building Pacific Railroad, Sierras A. R. Waud. G. H. Hayes. ... 464

159. Summit Crossing of Sierra Nevadas. A. R. Waud. Orr ..... 405

160. Reflection in Donner Lake. Hogan. Davis & Speer ..... 467

161. The Donner Party in 1846. Day. Davis & Speer , ..... 469

162. Portrait of \' the Salt Lake Poetess.\' \"W. \"Waud. Davis & Speer .... 470

163. A Section of Big Canyon, Colorado River. A. G. Warren. Fay & Cox .... 472

164. A View in Big Canyon of Colorado. Warren. Orr ..... 473

165. Six \"Wives. Miss Humphrey. Davis & Speer ..... 476

166. A Prolific Country. Miss Jarvis. Fay & Cox ..... 478

167. The Hurdy-Gurdy House, Virginia Montana. (Full page.) H. \"W. Herrick.

Davis & Speer Face page ..... 480

168. Virginia City Montana. W. Waud. Davis & Speer ..... 481

169. Two-thousand-dollar Nugget. Miss Hallock. Davis & Speer ..... 483

170. A Man of Nerve. A. R. Waud. Orr ..... 485

171. A State of Suspense. A. R. Waud. Davis & Speer  ..... 487

172. \' Speciments, Mass\'r \' Miss Hallock. Fay & Cox ..... 488

173. Great Falls of Missouri River. Schell. Davis & Speer ..... 491

174. Robbery of the Montana Coach. A. R. Waud. Karst ..... 493

175. Utah Indian Prisoners. J. C. Beard. Langridge ..... 495

176. Shoshonee, or Snake River, Cataract, Idaho. Warren. Orr ..... 498

177. Evidences of Civilization. Warren. Fay & Cox ..... 501

178. Interior of a Quartz Mill. Warren. Fay & Cox ..... 502

179. Ruby City, Owyhee, Idaho. A. R. Waud. Fay & Cox ..... 505

180. Examining the Ledges, War Eagle Mountain. Warren. Davis & Speer. .... 508

181. Fort Baker and Poorman Mine. Warren. Fay & Cox ..... 509

182. Surveying in Humboldt Pass. (Schimonsky.) Becker. Fay & Cox .... 511

183. The Noble Red Man. A. R. Waud. Davis & Speer ..... 512

184. \' Heavy on One Wheel.\' A. R. Walt). Davis & Speer .....514

185. Mount Hood, Oregon. (Butman.) White. Orr. ..... 515

186. Flathead Indians. Miss Hallock. Fay & Cox ..... 516

187. Madrona Tree, Healdsburg California. Hogan. Davis & Speer ... 519

188. Along the Hog-back. Warren. Orr ..... 522

189. Diagram of Devil\'s Canyon. Warren. Fay & Cox ..... 524

190. Witches\' Caldron, California Geysers. Warren. Fay & Cox ..... 525

191. Sea-Lions, San Francisco Harbor. Warren. Fay & Cox ..... 529

192. The Golden Gate. Outlet of San Francisco Bay. (Watkins) Warren. 0rr. ... 531

193. A School of Porpoises. Schell. Davis & Speer ..... 534

194. On the Isthmus, between Panama and Aspinwall. White. Fay & Cox ..... 540

195. Transferring the Specie at Aspinwall. E. Jump. Fay & Cox ..... 543

196. \' Only a Headache.\' A. R. Waud. Davis & Speer ..... 545

197. Delaware Street, Leavenworth, 1867. Bonwell. Fay & Cox ..... 550

198. Among the Grasshoppers. Warren. Fay & Cox ..... 553

199. Lawrence Kansas, after the Quantrell Raid. A. R. Waud. Orr ..... 557

200. A Painted Darkey. Warren. Fay & Cox ..... 559

201. A Part of Omaha in 1867. Shurtleff. Fay & Cox ..... 563

202. Portrait of George Francis Train. W. Waud. Davis & Speer ..... 566

203. Building the Pacific Railroad in Nebraska. (Full Page.) A. R. Waud.

Langridge. Face page ..... 567

204. Portrait of Thomas C. Durant. A. R. Waud. Davis & Speer ..... 568

205. Bear Hunting Sixty years ago. Warren. Fay & Cox ..... 570



CONTENTS...



CHAPTER I.

\"Westward and \"Westward. American \"Wines of the \"West. The Great Muddy
River. Scenes along the Missouii. Terrors of Missouri Navigation. A Story
of Steamboat Racing. Stopping to \'\"Wood Up.\' Oration by a Steamboat
Gambler. All Varieties of Passengers. Arrival in Kansas City. Encounter-
ing an Old Acquaintance. Border Ruffians iu Kansas, ..... 17

CHAPTER II.

A Glance at \"Wyandotte, Kansas. How Frontier Cities are Begun. A Romantic
Indian Legend. A City among the Rocks. On the Rolling Prairies. Travel-
ers along the Road. A Bit of Tankee Ingenuity. How Lawrence was Founded.
And how it was Named. A Scene of Surpassing Beauty, ..... 29

CHAPTER III.

A \"War Reminiscence. Juries and Councils of \"War. Origin of the Kansas
Troubles. Resistance to the Bogus Laws. Two Characteristics of the Struggle.
Free State Convention at Topeka. Lane\'s Power as an Orator. His Physical
Endurance. His Speech in the Convention. Other Prominent Speakers.
Reception of a Bogus Assessor. A Collection on First Principles. History
repeating itself \' Casting out the Vile Demon,\' ..... 39

CHAPTER IV.

First Visit to Leavenworth. A Journey on Foot. A Night with a Kentuc\'fcy
Squatter. The First Landing at Sumner. Atchison, Doniphan and Geary
City. A Mania for Speculation. Difference between Fact and Fancy. A Real
Estate Reaction. Rivalry of American Cities. An Eucroaching Element.
Vagaries of the Missouri, ..... 53

CHAPTER V.

Deadly Affray at the Polls. A Kansas Temple of Justice. A Murder for Money.
A Mob Administering Justice. \' The Man with the Rope.\' An Exciting Night
Scene, Mormons Escaping to Kansas. The Land Sale at Osawkee. Border
Ruffian Courts of Justice. A Quasi Declaration of War. Treason to be Put
Down. Fallacy of Human Testimony. Governor Extinguished by Ridicule, .... 64

CHAPTER VI.

Wild Fruits of the Prairies. An Emigrant Family in Camp. Rain Increasing
with Civilization. A Shrewd Speculator in Lumber. \"Within Prison \"V\\\'\'alls.

Last Treason Trial in Kansas. Traveling to a Convention. Siege of Hickory
Point. A Declaration by Buchanan. The Ballot or the Rifle. Rupture in the
Democratic Party. Fifteen Whisky Punches, ..... 77

CHAPTER VII.

Night Rides on the Prairies. Seeking Shelter among the Indians. A Night
¦with a Delaware Family. Origin of Indian Appellations. The Delaware
Baptist Mission. Another Night\'s Lodging. Soraetiiiug about the Shawnees.
Pottawatomie Funeral Rites. Origin of some Kansas Names. A Little Le-
gendary Lore, ..... 89

CHAPTER VIII.

Governor Denver makes his Debut. And has a Spirited Reception. \"Wonderful
Election Returns. To Vote or not to Vote. A Kansas Search-warrant. His-
tory of the Minneola Scheme. \' Mightier than the Sword.\' General Lane re-
ceives his Friends. A Speech Nipped in the Bud. Governors plenty as Black-
berries, ..... 99

CHAPTER IX.

An Imaginary City. \'What are j\'our Politics?\' Freaks of Pohtical Highway-
men. Not much Room left. An Excitement at Lawrence. Jenkins killed by
General Lane. An Adventurous Cat-fish. Tlie Result of a Mis-step. Brave
Father and Brave Son. A Most Inhuman Massacre. Le Marais du Cygne, ..... 109

CHAPTER X.

A Party of Peace-makers. Before a Comfortable Fire. A Night at Osawattomie.
Both Sides of the Question A Simple, Touching Story. Tlie Great Guerrilla
Chieftain. One of his Devoted Adherents. \' Catching a Tartar \' Illustrated.
A Moment of Excitement. Uniting to Keep the Peace. An Address by
Montgomery, ..... 120

CHAPTER XI.

Feminine Smokers of Tobacco. Fever and Ague Experiences. Perplexing
Usages of Words. Mysterious Slang Phrases Interpreted. Pearls and Return-
ing Gold Seekers. Colonel Gilpin\'s Early Predictions. Rattlesnakes as Bed-
fellows. Mysteries of Pre-empting Lands. Forms of \' Duplicates \' and Patents.
\' Oaths are Words.\' Borrowing a Child. An Ingenious Runaway Husband.
A Clever Stratagem Spoiled. Fertility of the Hemp Region. Republican ver-
sus Black Republican, ..... 131

CHAPTER XII.

A Bit of Legislative Fun. Cost of Kissing a Chamber-maid. Easy Divorce in
New States. Prisoners brought to Lawrence. An Unfortunate Hamilton. A
Hard Country for Governors. Kidnapping of John Doy. His Rescue by John Brown.
Kansas Tapped by the Railway. The Luxuries of Modem Travel.
A Little Trip to Kansas, ..... 147

CHAPTER XIII.

Great Stampede for the Mines. The Sufferings along the Route. \'Concord
\"Wagon \' or Stage Coach. St. Mary\'s Catholic Mission. Horace Greeley Taking
a Tour. A Limited Stock of Groceries. A Model Letter of Introduction. A
Specimen of Editorial Penmanship. Among the Antelopes and Buffaloes. A
Jovial Prairie Micawber. Facts about the Buffalo. A Narrow Escape from
Death, ..... 157

CHAPTER XIV.

Horace Greeley\'s Wide-spread Fame. Half a Million of Buff\"aloes. The Curious
Little Prairie-dog. Health and Strength of the Savage. Overturn of the Coach.
A Night in a Cheyenne Village. Republican River under Ground. First View
of Pike\'s Peak. Inspiring Presence of the Mountains. Denver City in its
Infancy,..... 169

CHAPTER XV.

Starting for the Gregory Diggings. Our Weary and Winding Way, In the Heart
of the Mountains. First Reliable Report of the Mines. First Mass Meeting at
Pike\'s Peak. Freaks of our Eccentric Mules. Our Most Extraordinary Land-
lord. \' Our Best Society \' in Denver. A Finished Specimen of a Gambler. An
Unfailing Supply of Victims. The Turns of Fortune\'s Wheel. Almost one of
Cooper\'s Heroes. A Visit from the Arapahoe Chief. A Conversation with Lit-
tle Ravea, ..... 179

CHAPTER XVI.

Little Raven as a Devotee. Indian Signals — Peace or Hostility. Expressive
Features and Gestures. Ho, for the Mountains again! Death from the Moun-
tain Fires. Evening Scenes among the Miners. The Gregory Diggings on
Sunday. Intellectual, Argumentative Miners. Predictions of Gold and Agri-
culture. A Shrewd California Emigrant. Beauty of our Indian Corn, ..... 193

CHAPTER XVII.

The Great Missouri Iron Moiintains. Quarrying out the Iron Ore. Twenty-seven
Hundred, Fahrenheit. Warsaw\'s Last Champions— and Soap. Lynching in
Springfield Missouri. Effect of the War upon Mis.souri. Conversations with
the Settlers. The Great Neo.sho Lead Region. Subterranean Mining Scenes.
Mode of Reducing Lead Ore. Villages in Southwestern Missouri,  ..... 204

CHAPTER XVIII.

Life at Fort Smith Arkansas. Cotton Picking in Louisiana. The Tale of an Ink-
stand. Experiences in a Sick Chamber. Entering the Indian Territory.
Among the Cherokees and Choctaws. Curious Hereditary Complexions.
Novel Boarding School Freaks. Crinoline among Indian \"Women. The Chicka-
saw.s lose their laws,  ..... 215

CHAPTER XIX.

News of Broderiek\'s Death. Frequency of Homicides in Texas. The Quaint
Mexican Cart. Stopped by the Colorado River. The Fierce, Untamed Co-
manches. Signal Code among the Savages. A Plucky Little Texan Woman.
On tlie Great Staked Plain. A Girl Stolen by Comanches. A Fatal Fondness
for Pictures, ..... 225

CHAPTER XX.

Preaching Easier than Practice. Tlie Colonel retires Disabled. First Line across
tlie Continent. \' Out \"West \' on its Travels. Peon Labor in New Mexico. A
Kantuckian in Court. Street Pictures in Mexican Towns. A Native Meg
Merrilies. An Aristocratic Castilian Gatliering. Sund;.y Worship in the Ca-
thedral ..... 235

CHAPTER XXI.

From El Paso to Santa Fe. Adventures witli the Apaches. Consumption of Red
Peppers. Passing througli Albuquerque. Arrival in Santa Fe. Highest Town
in the Union. An Experience at Gambling. Curiosities and Horrid Trophies.
Families of \"White Indians. Fascination of Border Life, ..... 245

CHAPTER XXII.

A Stray Printer and Journalist. A Ride with Kit Carson. His Hair-breadth
\'Scapes Hospitality of the Mexican. The Victim of a Biographer. All about
Mexican Donkeys. The Rebellion of 1847. Curious Religious Customs of Na-
tives. Mexican Peonage versus Slavery. Among tlie Pueblo Indians. Their
Superstitions and Traditions. Strange Old Aztec Ruins. Geological Changes
in the Country-, ..... 256

CHAPTER XXIII.

From Taos to Denver, Colorado. A Polyglot Landlord. Before the Sutler\'s Fire.
Out-door Mountain Lodgings. Meeting a Plucky Pedestrian. An Unpleasant
Sleeping Companion. A Herd of Spotted Antelopes. Offerings to an Invisible
Deity. Another Old Friend. Climate and Pulmonary Complaints. A Report
of John Brown. End of Summer Journeyings, ..... 269

CHAPTER XXIV.

A Night with a Squatter. Killed in the Darkness. Reminiscences of Old John
Brown. Yankees, Missnurians and \'Cricks.\' A Letter from John Brown.
One of Jolin Brown\'s Followers. An Extinguishing Retort. Along the Emi-
grant R(.ad. IluMiors of Plains Travel. Our Pioneers and Self-government.
An Illustration of Lynch Law. Gordon\'s Capture, Trial and Death. Wonder-
ful Tenacity of Life, ..... 281



CHAPTER XXV.

A Summer Day in Denver. Best House in tlie Neighborhood. A Breakfast
Party of Rovers. Newspapers, Churches, Hotels, Stores. Mint, Express-office
and Coach. Curious Characters from Everywhere. A Stroll down Blake
Street An Editor and a Count. A Grand Mountain Panorama, ..... 294

CHAPTER XXVI.

Little Eaven Loses a Treasure. A Dentist Practices Strategy. A Hard Countrjk
for Editors. A Night at Aiwllo Theater. Tisit to Gregory Diggings. Pun-
ishing a Precocious Youth. In the Great Soutli Park. A Memorable Summer
Excursion. The Interesting Monument Region. Music in Underground
Chambers, ..... 303

CHAPTER XXVII.

Starting up the Mountains. Scenes of Picturesque Beauty. jSTature\'s Terrible
Convulsions. Dismal and Dreary Situation. Clouds Breaking once more.
Fears of Fever and Delirium. All Vegetation left behind. On the Crest al
last. An Indescribably Grand View. Four Territories— Four Great Rivers.
Provisions Alarmingly Scarce. Effects of the Five-days\' Trip. Good Treat-
ment for Invalids. The Trans-continental Pony Express, ..... 313

CHAPTER XXVIII.

Starting Westward again. \"Indian Murders and Depredations. Tornado near
Fort Kearney. Press Dispatches on the Wing. One Dollar for a Newspaper.
Grasshoppers Miraculoush\' Destroyed. Ranch Eggs versus States Eggs. Les-
son of Mountain Scenery. Gregory Diggings at Six Years Old. A Curious
Claim Controversy. Growth and Resources of Colorado, ..... 327

CHAPTER XXIX.

Virginia Dale — Lover\'s Leap. Smelling the Battle afar off. Indians a Little too
Near. \"Wagon Three Inches too Wide. Chruch Butte and Fort Bridger. An
Old Trapper\'s Story. Three Mormon Wives— all Sisters. First View of Salt
Lake Valley. Speeches and Responses — Hot Springs. Scenery of Wonderful
Beauty. Eight Days among the Mormons. Miracles of the Telegraph. Frank
Discussion with Brigham Young ..... 338

CHAPTER XXX.

The City of the Future. All the Jews are Gentiles. Personal Description of
Brigham. An Hour in Brigham\'s School. Thirty Wives and Sixty Children.
Great Salt Lake and the Dead Sea. Sunday Service of the Mormons. Brig-
Lam\'s Great Theater. Dwellers among the Mountain-tops. Sagacity of the
Mormon Leaders. Practical Workings of Polygamy. One Wife too many.
Assassinations in Salt Lake City. Early Trials of the Pioneers. How the
Problem will be Solved, ..... 351



CHAPTER XXXI.

From Salt Lake City Westward. Eight Miles in Thirty Minutes. Irrigating the
Sandy Deserts. Hardships and Perils of P^xplorers. Features of Austin Ne-
vada. First View of Sierra Nevadas. A City set upon a Hill. Excitements
in Mining Stocks. Richest Silver Mine ever Found. Curious Inventions of Mi-
ners. Four Hundred Feet under Ground. Ores Sent Abroad for Reduction.
Five Hundred Millions per Annum, ..... 366

CHAPTER XXXII.

Carson City and Carson Valley. Earliest OfiBcers of Nevada. Lake Tahoe, on
Sierra Nevadas. Seven Thousand Feet above Sea-level. A Legend of Stage
Driving. Thrilling Ride down the Sierras. Reaching the Locomotive again.
Sacramento — Arrival in San Francisco. A Startling Catalogue of Events.
Delightful Days in Placerville. The Rare Charm of California. Chinamen on
the Pacific Coast. Among the Hydraulic Miners. The Wonderful Power of
Water ..... 379

CHAPTER XXXIII.

Wann Climate of Pacific Coast. Scene of a California Story. The Widow of John
Brown. Spelling \' Yreka Bakery \' Backward. Reminiscences of General Grant.
Noteworthy Points on the Road. Plentifulness of Babies. Portland Street and
River Scenes. Excursion up the Columbia. Lincoln Grant and Sheridan.
Curious Dalles of the Columbia. A Bit of Oratorical Fun. Northern Pacific
Railroad wanted. A Couple of \' Little Stories,\' ..... 393

CHAPTER XXXIV.

A Frontier Supreme Court. Oregon Pioneers Govern Themselves. Terrible Re-
venge on the Savages. The Rich Resources gf Oregon. A Little more Oregon
Cider. Forests of Washington Territory. A Strange Forest Village. The
America of the Future. Beautiful Scenery of Puget Sound Under the British
Flag. Features of Vancouver Island. American Rhetoric among the Britons.
Fate of the Brother Jonathan, ..... 407

CHAPTER XXXV.

Discovery of Yosemite Valley. View from Inspiration Point. Riding down the
Zigzags. Hutehings and his Household. Trees and Walls of the Valley.
Yosemite Fall— Highest in the World. ElCapitan; Mount King; Mount Col-
fax. Bridal Vail; Vernal; Mirror Lake. The Wonderful Round Rainbow.
Grandest Scenery on the Globe. Eight Thousand Feet above Sea-level. Visit-
ing the Mariposa Big Trees. Forty Feet in Diameter. A Forest Ingomar and
Parthenia. Grizzly Giant — Thirty-four Feet in Diameter. A Grand National
Summer Resort, ..... 420



CHAPTER XXXVI.

Invited to Celestial Hospitalities. Sitting down to the Banquet. More than
Three Hundred Dishes. Extracts from the Bill-of-fare. \'Wives won\'t Come.\'
Mr. Colfax and his Journey. My Friends Homeward Bound. California Poli-
tics as a Study. Features of California Society. American Wit and Humor.
A String of California Stories, ..... 436

CHAPTER XXXVII.

The \"Raw Winds of San Francisco. A Climate Stimulating like Wine. Fires and
Earthquakes Unavailing. Prejudice against the Chinese. Mission Mills;
Church; Yosemite Views. California Quartz-mining and Farming. Grain,
Vegetables and Fruit Trees. Mammoth Productions of California. Oranges,
Vineyards and Wines. An Immense Private Enterprise. The San Francisco
Newspapers. A Bit of Historical Record. Half an Hour in the Mint. The
Great PaciHc Railway, ..... 447

CHAPTER XXXVIII.

Excursion on the Pacific Railroad. Twelve Thousand Chinese Laborers. Horri-
ble Fate of the Donner Party. Engulfed by a Snow-slide. Establishing the
Railway Route. Empty Travelers Fearless of Robbers. Fellow Passengers on
the Desert. Once more in Salt Lake City. A \' Destroying Angel \' on Journal-
ists. The Salt Lake Poetess. A Few of her Early Stanzas. Pah Ranagat Sil-
ver Region, Colorado River and Big Canyon. The Novelties of Arizona, ..... 461

CHAPTER XXXIX.

From Salt Lake to Montana. On Waters of tlie Pacific. Hanged upon his own
Gallows. Virginia Montana, and Alder Gulch. Scenes during the Flu.sh
Times. An Hour in the Hurdy-gurdy. Standing Astride the Missouri. A
Visit to Helena. Curious Painting of Fort Union. Pitched from a Stage
Coach. Costly Newspaper Publishing. Quaint Indian Translations. Vigi-
lantes Administering Justice. Quartz on the Brnin. A Great Future for
Montana, ..... 475


CHAPTER XL.

Lewis and Clark\'s Great Expedition. Explorers given up as Dead. Build them
a Monument! \'Help yourself to the Mustard.\' Unerring Instinct of Beavers.
Every Man\'s House his Castle. A most Wonderful Mirage. Visiting Great
Shoshonee Fall. Enormous Portals of Lava. Fascination of tlie Deep Gulf
A Bloodless Idaho War. Unattractive State of Society. The Chinook Jargon.
Scenes in a Great Quartz Mill, .....  490

CHAPTER XLI.

A Visit to Owyhee. Ruby City — War Eagle Mountain. Grinding Quartz versus
Stamping. \'Italian Summers and Syrian Winters.\' Into the Oro Fino Mine.
The Great Poorman War. Much Capital Recklessly Squandered. Agricultural
Capacitj\' of Idaho. Robberies of Mail Coach. Among the Blue Mountains. A
Night at Meacham\'s. Down the Beautiful Columbia. Lewis and Clark\'s Old
Campmg-ground. Our Quartz Regions Full of Interest, ..... 504

CHAPTER XLII.

The Telegraph always a Miracle. Ingenious Newspaperial Strategy. A Story of
the Rebellion. Healdsburg and Foss-station. The Roar of the Geysers. Plu-
ton River and Devil\'s Canyon. Grotto; Devil\'s Wash-bowl and Kitchen.
Witches\' Caldron; Crater; Vent Holes. The Wonders of California, ..... 518

CHAPTER XLIII.

Steamer-day \' in San Francisco. Finest Vessels in the World. Captains\' Wives
not Admitted. Gull, Albatross and Porpoise. A Lazy and Luxurious Exist-
ence. Six Hours in Acapulco. Earthquakes — A Droll War. No Vehicles
nor Wagon Roads. Wonderful Beauty of the Nights. Arrival at Panama, ..... 527

CHAPTER XLIV.

Native Complexions and Costumes. The Old Cathedral at Panama. A Black
Proverbial Philosopher. Lignumvitaj Sleepers ; Cement Poles. Richest Vege-
tation in the World. Along the Panama Railway. Twelve Hours in Aspin-
wall. Discomforts on the \' Rolling Deep \' Experiences of the Passengers.
Night in a Heavy Gale. End of Eight Months\' Wanderings, ..... 537

CHAPTER XLV.

A Ride through Illinois. Atchison; Sumner; Leavenworth. Railway Ride to
Topeka. A Political Convention again. Curious Retributive Justice. Omniv-
orous Grasshoppers. Farming by Machinery. Women Voting on School Mat-
ters. Lawrence; the Old Landmarks. Paola; the Border Counties. One  
Cent per Year. Kansas as a Farming State. Beautify the Dwellings. Peace
Ilath her Victories, ..... 548

CHAPTER XLVI.

From Saint Joseph to Omaha. A Beautiful Town-site. Street Scenes in Omaha,
An Original American. Out on the Pacific Railroad. Two and-a-half Miles
per Day. The Three Kansas Forks. Twenty-five Thousand Men Employed.
An Experience of Lewis and Clark. A Trip across Iowa. Around the World
by Railway, ..... 562




On the 28th of May,
1857, I left St. Louis, whirling westward by the Pacific Kail-
road of Missouri. It was begun in 1850 when there were but
seven thousand miles of railway on the American continent.
Now there are thirty-seven thousand miles.

Slavery had greatly retarded this richest State of our whole
Union. Illinois, building the longest railway in the world and
reaching every hamlet with the locomotive, was far in advance of
her. Chicago, stretching out iron arms in every direction, was
fast gaining upon St. Louis. But Missouri already felt the free
atmosphere of her great metropolis and the surrounding States.
She had plunged heavily in debt to inaugurate a generous railway
system, guaranteeing bonds of the companies to the amount of
many millions of dollars. Several of these roads, in defoult of
payment, were afterward forfeited to the Commonwealth, and sold
to new corporations at a heavy loss. But they developed tlie un-
equaled resources of Missouri, and were the entering wedge — the
first deadly blow at her relic of barbarism.

We looked up at tall fantastic turrets crowning higli lime-
stone walls, and down into deep valleys of luxuriant oaks, elms,
maples, black- walnuts, sycamores, and cottonwoods, with net-
work of parasitic vines. In August the landscape is black with
enormous clusters of elder-berries from which skillful housewives
make a pleasant, domestic wine. Now, among dead, ghostly,
standing trunks of girdled trees, thriving corn and tobacco con-
cealed the rich, jet-black soil. Autumn corn-stalks often rise high
above the log farm-houses, and completely hide them, —

\'A mighty waize, but not without a plan.\'

At the few very modern villages, we heard native depot-
masters report \' Eight smart o\' sickness down the crick,\' and little
darkies warn each other, \' Get out of the way, the train has done
started.\'

Hermann, a German settlement upon our route, was then pro-
ducing more native wine than any other point west of Ohio,
Now, California far exceeds it. Wherever the sharp bluffs of
Missouri slope to the southward, they are specially adapted to
vine-growing ; and the State is believed to embrace ten million
acres upon which the grape will thrive — double the area of all the
vineyards of France. The capacity of the Ohio valley also, is
practically illimitable. Already the mellow lines of Longfellow
are not merely the poet\'s fancy, but literal truth, —

\' For richest and best

Is the wine of the West, *

That grows by the Beautiful River.\'

The next generation will see the choicest wines of the world
made in California, Ohio and Missouri. They will be exported
to every foreign land. Americans will give them to their children,
and use them freely in their households as our farmers do milk,
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