L. C. Smith Cocking Tool, USA Made SxS Must Have. For Sale

Precision tool made here in Detroit Michigan.

Mill finished, tumbled and ready for you to blue or your choice of finish.

How your tool works

Your tool has two working ends. The important thing is that you use one cocking arm as the fulcrum while the other is moved.

1. Remove the barrels from the L.C. Smith so you’re working with the receiver/locks exposed.

2. Look at the front of the lock area. Each lock has a cocking arm/rod that projects toward the front. These are what the tool engages.

3. Put the open hook of your tool around the appropriate cocking arm.

4. The other end of your tool bears against/engages the opposing cocking arm. In effect, the second arm becomes your pivot point.

5. Do not try to pry straight outward. The L.C. Smith experts specifically describe the operation as rotating the long arm of the cocking tool downward, using the opposing arm as the lever/fulcrum.

6. As you rotate it downward, you’re rotating the hammer back against the mainspring. It takes some force.

7. Continue the controlled rotation until you feel a distinct click. That click is the sear engaging the hammer in the cocked position.

8. Release the pressure carefully and check the cocking arm. A properly cocked lock should now be retained by the sear rather than springing back.

9. Repeat for the other lock if both hammers need cocking.

The L.C. Smith Collectors Association’s technical library specifically has a section dealing with cocking the hammers when the gun has been disassembled, and experienced L.C. Smith specialists confirm that one of these tools works across the different gauges.

One thing I want you to be careful about

Don’t force the tool if it doesn’t naturally engage the cocking arm. If the tool is positioned incorrectly, you could damage the cocking rod, lock, or tool. Also, if a cocking arm moves freely rather than resisting spring pressure, that can indicate the lock is already cocked; don’t keep levering it.