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Vintage HMIJ / Gilbert Ortega Navajo Sterling Silver Turquoise & Coral Watch Cuff – circa 1960s
Outstanding vintage Native American watch cuff attributed to the Gilbert Ortega / HMIJ shop, featuring turquoise and coral chip inlay and traditional Southwestern silverwork.
The interior carries the distinctive HMIJ pictorial sun-face hallmark associated with the Gilbert Ortega shop, along with a separate block “W” silversmith/worker\'s mark. Research into the individual W maker is ongoing; I have not found sufficient documentation to confidently attribute that mark to a specific silversmith.
The cuff is not stamped STERLING or .925. The metal has been scratch/acid tested as silver and is being represented as sterling based on that test, although the exact silver fineness has not been verified by XRF.
Details:
HMIJ / Gilbert Ortega shop hallmark
Separate block “W” maker/worker hallmark
Navajo / Southwestern construction
Turquoise and coral chip inlay
Acid-tested silver
Approximately 34 mm wide at the widest portion
Approximately 25 mm wide at the narrowest portion
Approximately 17 mm watch lug opening
Estimated 1960s vintage
Watch head not included
The cuff retains substantial original patina and has not been polished. It shows expected surface wear, oxidation and signs of use consistent with its age. Please examine the photographs carefully for condition.
The combination of the early HMIJ pictorial shop hallmark, separate individual silversmith mark, turquoise/coral chip inlay and watch-cuff format makes this a particularly interesting piece of vintage Southwestern jewelry.
Please note: Dating is approximate. The “W” silversmith mark remains unidentified. Silver was tested using jewelry-testing acid; no XRF assay has been performed to determine exact fineness.
A great candidate for a period vintage watch head or as a collectible example of early HMIJ / Gilbert Ortega shop jewelry.